Gwangjang Market (광장 시장)

Gwangjang Market (시장 - shi jang) opened in 1905 and became the first permanent market (as supposed to markets that were set up every few days) in the country. It thrived as one of the 3 major markets in Seoul in the late Joseon Dynasty. Although the market was originally planned to be set up between Gwang-gyo (광교 - wide bridge) and Jang-gyo (장교 - long bridge) nearby Cheonggye-cheon (청계천 - Cheonggye Stream), the plan was canceled after a flood in 1904. Today, the market is still using the name of Gwangjang, wide and long, which you'll understand when you go there. Although it is famous for textiles and traditional Korean costumes, we, the hungry foodies, know it as a food destination where you can see the real livelihood of common Korea.

The food section is only a part of Gwangjang Shijang, yet it is a street-food central with a better representation of the food that goes well with alcoholic beverages, by which I mean, soju. It is most famous for bindaetteok/bindaeddeok (빈대떡 - mung bean pancake, often mixed with pork), but Korean-style beef carpaccio (육회 - yuk hoe), bibimbap, fish stews, mayak (마약 - drug) gimbap and giant blood sausages (순대 - sun dae) are also popular items here.

Sunheene Bindaetteok (순희네 빈대떡) is the most famous of the famous mung bean pancake places. Interestingly, you'll find many bindaeddeok stalls with that name. Most bindaeddeok stalls are set up in a similar way, with a wide griddle and hot oil, tens of fried pancakes stacked high and an automatic mung bean grinder nearby. Look out for small pieces of bindaeddeok in front of the griddle for your own sampling.

Kiddie gimbap, spicy rice cakes and fish cakes from left to right. I never get tired of them.

Off the main drag, I found an older lady who just had one big bucket of steaming blood sausages. I like those who can keep their focus (partly because I can't). I took a seat next to her. Blood sausage wasn't all that special, I just liked it as usual. But eavesdropping on the converstaion of the two guys next to me was special. One of them was proudly telling the other guy how his 7-year old daughter was not smart enough, that she would never get a prize for studying well, but she had a kind heart with common sense like no other. Something I wouldn't have understood in my earlier years, but I knew that was his way of staying humble and expressing his affection for his daughter and how really proud he was of her. Korean dads...

After making a hundred perfectly shaped dumplings (만두 - man du), she's now rolling to make kalguksu (칼국수 - knife-cut noodles).

I have seen you before, fish hangers.

Oh, hi, Hello Kitty! I haven't seen you in a while.

This is the place for bibimbap a la minute. The setup looks like the origin of salad bars.

Kimchi stand for you to take some home!

Of course I was looking to get fuschia-colored plastic slippers.

...and kitchenware.

In case you're wondering, M&M's and Altoids are here too.

...along with traditional Korean wears for all ages.

You knew waffles and coffee were from Korea, right? (FYI, maybe a stretch, but I find it oddly yet appropriately related to this picture. The NY Times reviewed the recent opening of Caffebene in Times Square.)

These kiddie gimbap (꼬마 김밥 - ggo ma gim bap), named 'drug gimbap' (마약 김밥 - ma yak gim bap), are supposedly addictive like drugs. I don't know about their addictive qualities, but I was definitely mesmerized by this grandma. The whole time I was watching, then eating gimbap then watching again, she never stopped rolling gimbap. Slow and steady, but never stopped. An order of gimbap with a dose of life lesson costs 2,000 won. Her smile is cute too.

Off from the main drag again, I found this one-person operation of mung bean pancakes. People sitting around her seem to be her regulars, with a bottle of soju on hand. I feel like this sums up what Gwangjang Shijang is about.

Don't forget your blankets on your way out.

How to get there)
Exit 8 from Jong-no 5(oh)-ga Station (종로 5가역) of Subway Line 1
Exit 4 from Euljiro 4(sa)-ga Station (을지로 4가역) of Subway Line 2 and Line 5

Follow this link to the map in Korean and information on buses that can take you there.

Description of Gwangjang Market on the Korea Tourism Organization website (English)

The food section is open year-long and late until 11PM everyday, but other stores have different store hours depending on their business and are closed for some Sundays. If you are visiting the market (or anywhere else you go for that matter) during Korean holiday season, make sure to check it's open.

KOREAN WORDS
시장 (shi jang) market, usually referring to traditional, often open-air market
녹두 (nok du) mung bean